So, it's been a while! What has everyone been up to? I've been experimenting with seed beads. It's amazing what you can come up with if you use different sized beads than the one recommended in the design you're working with. One way to keep the design ideas coming is to subscribe to a beading magazine. Popular bead magazines include Beadstyle, Beadwork and Bead and Button. These are actually top of the line mags. When working with a bead pattern, I encourage you to experiment and add your own touch. Go crazy with it! Use the colors you love and the beads that attract you. What you come up with will be unique and a source of pride.
Take a sneak peak at my new site, [Removed]. It's still a work in progress but you can find some useful information there. Visit often to learn things like what tools you will need when making jewelry, how to bead crochet, how to make resin jewelry, how to make polymer clay jewelry how to do bead weaving stitches like even count peyote and right angle weave, and much more. I moved some of the information from this blog there and expanded it. So, it's [Removed]. See you there!
December 15, 2007
October 14, 2007
So, I must tell you that I've been slacking in the jewelry-making department lately. I've been so consumed with the website, my toddlers, and general home life, that I haven't had enough time to do this other thing I love. As usually happens when I neglect it for a while, I started to feel that something was missing and I almost ran to the kitchen to get my beading equipment. My kitchen is the safest place for choking hazards because of my toddlers. There's a gate from the living room into the kitchen and it's just high enough so that... er... never mind, back to jewelry :-)
Anyway, after spending several days writing about the different ways to make jewelry, I had all these designs in my head that I was eager to try out. I decided to try to make a tube with size 8 crystal beads and beading thread. Can you say "bad idea" in five languages? It definitely was. If you've read the page on beads, you'll see that I almost beg you not to use thread for glass beads. I don't know why I didn't take my own advice but I guess I've proven to myself once more that it shouldn't be done.
But moving on. Are you hungry for a project to work on? Here's the first necklace I made with polymer clay beads (I plan to talk about how to work with polymer clay on the new website). You can use regular beads instead. The beads are linked together with wrapped loops and the necklace gets down to the navel.
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I used 34 beads, approximately 8mm in size. You will also need stiff beading wire, side-cutting pliers, flat-nose pliers, and round-nose pliers. You won't need a clasp since the necklace is long enough to slip over your head.
Before we begin, I'll just say this: If you are not familiar with creating loops and links with wire, it's best to practice with inexpensive craft wire first. When you're comfortable with the process then break out the precious metal if you want. You can get craft wire at craft stores.
We'll begin.
1. Cut a piece of wire, about 3 inches long (make it longer if you want to make it easier).
2. Move up about 1 inch from one of the ends. Holding the wire firm, bend it at a 90 degree angle with your flat-nose pliers.
3. Using your round-nose pliers, grip the wire at a point a little less than half the distance from the angle. Turn with your round-nose pliers until you have formed a loop. Don't release your hold yet.
4. Grip the wire sticking our from the round-nose pliers with your flat nose pliers and wrap it around the wire under the round-nose pliers about 3 times to form a complete loop.
5. Cut any excess wire with your flush-cut pliers. Make your cut as close as possible then, using your flat-nose pliers, try to push the cut end close to the wire stem.
6. Make a few of these and set them aside. You will need 34 altogether, or as many as the number of beads you plan to use.
Linking your beads
7. Slide a bead onto a looped wire.
8. Put the loop of one of the other wires on the long end (un-looped).
9. Repeat steps 2 - 4.
10. Repeat these steps until you get to your desired length then loop your last bead to your first bead.
You're done. Enjoy!
Anyway, after spending several days writing about the different ways to make jewelry, I had all these designs in my head that I was eager to try out. I decided to try to make a tube with size 8 crystal beads and beading thread. Can you say "bad idea" in five languages? It definitely was. If you've read the page on beads, you'll see that I almost beg you not to use thread for glass beads. I don't know why I didn't take my own advice but I guess I've proven to myself once more that it shouldn't be done.
But moving on. Are you hungry for a project to work on? Here's the first necklace I made with polymer clay beads (I plan to talk about how to work with polymer clay on the new website). You can use regular beads instead. The beads are linked together with wrapped loops and the necklace gets down to the navel.
.jpg)
I used 34 beads, approximately 8mm in size. You will also need stiff beading wire, side-cutting pliers, flat-nose pliers, and round-nose pliers. You won't need a clasp since the necklace is long enough to slip over your head.
Before we begin, I'll just say this: If you are not familiar with creating loops and links with wire, it's best to practice with inexpensive craft wire first. When you're comfortable with the process then break out the precious metal if you want. You can get craft wire at craft stores.
We'll begin.
1. Cut a piece of wire, about 3 inches long (make it longer if you want to make it easier).
2. Move up about 1 inch from one of the ends. Holding the wire firm, bend it at a 90 degree angle with your flat-nose pliers.
3. Using your round-nose pliers, grip the wire at a point a little less than half the distance from the angle. Turn with your round-nose pliers until you have formed a loop. Don't release your hold yet.
4. Grip the wire sticking our from the round-nose pliers with your flat nose pliers and wrap it around the wire under the round-nose pliers about 3 times to form a complete loop.
5. Cut any excess wire with your flush-cut pliers. Make your cut as close as possible then, using your flat-nose pliers, try to push the cut end close to the wire stem.
6. Make a few of these and set them aside. You will need 34 altogether, or as many as the number of beads you plan to use.
Linking your beads
7. Slide a bead onto a looped wire.
8. Put the loop of one of the other wires on the long end (un-looped).
9. Repeat steps 2 - 4.
10. Repeat these steps until you get to your desired length then loop your last bead to your first bead.
You're done. Enjoy!
October 11, 2007
Hello again! "It's been a while", you say. I know, many apologies. I haven't been idle though. I've been working on a website for you. How so? Well, it's fun and and everything to post jewelry-making information here, but I realized that a blog isn't really the ideal place for what I would like to do. (Duh!) I want to make it easy for you to see what's available and easy to find whatever you're looking for. The site is still under construction but I'll let you know as soon as it's done. I'll continue to post helpful tips here though so keep on visiting!
September 26, 2007
Simple necklace project
Bead stringing can range from the absolutely simple to the incredibly complex. You could have a single bead, or a different centerpiece, on a cord and tie both ends together, or you can have a variety of beads on multiple strands interwoven in a complicated but beautiful fashion. However you look at it it’s still bead stringing.
Choose your components carefully when you decide on a project. Even elements for the simplest bead project have to be chosen carefully. I’ve had to learn this the hard way! If the bead is too heavy for the string, or the edges are too sharp, the necklace will not last long. If the clasp is too small or not easy to open and close, you will be frustrated every time you put the necklace on.
But don’t despair! If you already have a bead or something else in mind that you want to string, just choose materials that will complement and support it properly. (See earlier posts for guides on beads, stringing materials and findings.)
Let’s start off with the simple necklace in the picture. This was my first ‘real’ project. By that, I mean it was the first item I made that I was satisfied with and thought was good enough to sell. (Of course I’m proud of the very first necklace I made but I didn’t use the right components so it’s for display purposes only :-) )
.jpg)
If you want a different look, play around with the length of the necklace or use other beads instead of the chalk turquoise and heishe beads. For this project, you will need:
47 4mm chalk turquoise beads
20 3.5 x 2 mm saucer beads, gold
1 fishhook clasp, gold
Beading wire
2 crimp tubes, gold
Crimping pliers
1. Measure about 30 inches of beading wire and cut. The necklace is about 18 inches long but you will need some allowance when attaching the clasps and for general ease when working. Always take the clasps into consideration when measuring the total length of a necklace or bracelet.
2. Using the last 6 inches of one end of the wire, string one crimp tube and one half of the fishhook clasp.
3. Pass the same end of the wire back into the crimp tube. Pull the wire tight so that the fishhook clasp is snug next to the crimp tube. There should be a few inches of the wire end sticking out of the crimp tube.
4. Use your crimping pliers to flatten and compress the crimp tube. For excellent instructions on how to do this, click here
5. Next, string on 14 chalk turquoise beads.
6. String on one saucer bead, then a turquoise bead, one saucer bead, and then one turquoise bead. Continue this process until you have used 20 saucer beads.
7. String on 14 chalk turquoise beads.
8. Add the second crimp tube and then the second half of the fishhook clasp. Pass the wire back through the crimp tube and pull tight. The clasp, again, should be snug next to the crimp tube.
9. Use your crimping pliers on the crimp tube.
10. If the end of the wire is very long, trim it to about 2 inches. Pass the wire back through the last two or three turquoise beads to hide it.
11. Repeat the last step for the other end of the neclace.
Enjoy :-)
Choose your components carefully when you decide on a project. Even elements for the simplest bead project have to be chosen carefully. I’ve had to learn this the hard way! If the bead is too heavy for the string, or the edges are too sharp, the necklace will not last long. If the clasp is too small or not easy to open and close, you will be frustrated every time you put the necklace on.
But don’t despair! If you already have a bead or something else in mind that you want to string, just choose materials that will complement and support it properly. (See earlier posts for guides on beads, stringing materials and findings.)
Let’s start off with the simple necklace in the picture. This was my first ‘real’ project. By that, I mean it was the first item I made that I was satisfied with and thought was good enough to sell. (Of course I’m proud of the very first necklace I made but I didn’t use the right components so it’s for display purposes only :-) )
.jpg)
If you want a different look, play around with the length of the necklace or use other beads instead of the chalk turquoise and heishe beads. For this project, you will need:
47 4mm chalk turquoise beads
20 3.5 x 2 mm saucer beads, gold
1 fishhook clasp, gold
Beading wire
2 crimp tubes, gold
Crimping pliers
1. Measure about 30 inches of beading wire and cut. The necklace is about 18 inches long but you will need some allowance when attaching the clasps and for general ease when working. Always take the clasps into consideration when measuring the total length of a necklace or bracelet.
2. Using the last 6 inches of one end of the wire, string one crimp tube and one half of the fishhook clasp.
3. Pass the same end of the wire back into the crimp tube. Pull the wire tight so that the fishhook clasp is snug next to the crimp tube. There should be a few inches of the wire end sticking out of the crimp tube.
4. Use your crimping pliers to flatten and compress the crimp tube. For excellent instructions on how to do this, click here
5. Next, string on 14 chalk turquoise beads.
6. String on one saucer bead, then a turquoise bead, one saucer bead, and then one turquoise bead. Continue this process until you have used 20 saucer beads.
7. String on 14 chalk turquoise beads.
8. Add the second crimp tube and then the second half of the fishhook clasp. Pass the wire back through the crimp tube and pull tight. The clasp, again, should be snug next to the crimp tube.
9. Use your crimping pliers on the crimp tube.
10. If the end of the wire is very long, trim it to about 2 inches. Pass the wire back through the last two or three turquoise beads to hide it.
11. Repeat the last step for the other end of the neclace.
Enjoy :-)
September 21, 2007
The Basics - Needles
Needles
The main difference between beading needles and sewing needles is that beading needles are much finer so they can pass through the holes of tiny beads. Beading needles can be used for stringing, loom work and off-loom weaving. Two beading needles that are easiest to work with are twisted needles and wide eye needles.
Twisted needles – A twisted needle is basically a twisted wire, with a loop at one end for the thread. The loop collapses as it passes through a bead. The twisted needle is used mainly for stringing beads because it does not have a sharp point.
Wide eye needle –The whole length of the wide eye needle is an eye. You can use both ends of the bi-directional needle. To thread it, open the eye with your fingernail and insert the thread. This needle is available in the following lengths: ¼ inch, ½ inch, 3 inch, 4 inch and 5 inch.
The main difference between beading needles and sewing needles is that beading needles are much finer so they can pass through the holes of tiny beads. Beading needles can be used for stringing, loom work and off-loom weaving. Two beading needles that are easiest to work with are twisted needles and wide eye needles.
Twisted needles – A twisted needle is basically a twisted wire, with a loop at one end for the thread. The loop collapses as it passes through a bead. The twisted needle is used mainly for stringing beads because it does not have a sharp point.
Wide eye needle –The whole length of the wide eye needle is an eye. You can use both ends of the bi-directional needle. To thread it, open the eye with your fingernail and insert the thread. This needle is available in the following lengths: ¼ inch, ½ inch, 3 inch, 4 inch and 5 inch.
September 19, 2007
The Basics - Beads
There are just simply amazing beads available for jewelry and the selections are endless. Sometimes, I get design ideas by just looking through my bead selection or a catalog. Lets talk about the major categories.
Crystal Beads
Swarovski is the authority on crystal beads and components, and the company is constantly creating new styles. There are endless design possibilities with Swarovski crystals. Celestial crystal beads may not have as wide a variety of beads but they do offer a nice selection and are more affordable.
Gemstone Beads
Make elegant jewelry with gemstones like amethyst, carnelian, garnet and so many more.
Glass Beads
Glass beads always amaze me, and I must confess that, so far, I actually prefer these to gemstone beads. I guess I just love colorful glass. There are so many different kinds, including lampwork beads. Lampwork beads are painstakingly made by hand with colored glass and a torch. No two are exactly alike.
Metal Beads
Precious metal – Gold and silver, of course, fall into this category. Gold beads are available in 14K and 18K. By law, the amount of gold present cannot be less than 14K. Vermeil items have a silver center that has been heavily electroplated with gold. Vermeil beads are slightly less expensive than gold beads.
Plated beads – Plated beads usually have a brass center that has been lightly electroplated with gold or silver.
Cloisonné – The colorful patterns on cloisonné beads are made with enamel and separated with thin strips of metal.
Pewter – Pewter is an alloy of tin and other metals. It was originally an alloy of tin and lead. If you are purchasing pewter items, be sure that they are lead-free.
Other metal beads include brass, copper, and zinc alloy.
Natural Beads
Natural beads are beads made of natural components like bone, wood, nuts, seeds and shells.
Pearls
Natural pearls are those that are naturally produced in an oyster or mussel without any kind of human intervention. They are usually not evenly shaped.
Cultured pearls – These have been produced in freshwater oyster farms. A tiny grain of sand, glass or mother-of-pearl is injected into the oyster, which immediately begins to surround it with nacre. It will continue to do this while it lives, creating an increasingly bigger pearl.
Imitation pearls include glass-based pearls and crystal pearls by Swarovski. There are some truly beautiful ones and they are available in different colors.
Plastic Beads
Plastic beads are not just for kids these days! Acrylic bead designers are creating very sophisticated-looking beads now. You can even take the regular beads uptown with elaborate clasps. These beads are courtesy of Firemountaingems.com.
Seed beads
Sizes range from 6 to 22. The higher the number, the smaller the bead and size 22 seed beads are the smallest at 0.9mm. However, these are no longer in production. The seed beads most commonly found are the size 6, 8, 11 and 15. The following chart is courtesy of Firemountaingems.com.
Crystal Beads
Swarovski is the authority on crystal beads and components, and the company is constantly creating new styles. There are endless design possibilities with Swarovski crystals. Celestial crystal beads may not have as wide a variety of beads but they do offer a nice selection and are more affordable.
Gemstone Beads
Make elegant jewelry with gemstones like amethyst, carnelian, garnet and so many more.
Glass Beads
Glass beads always amaze me, and I must confess that, so far, I actually prefer these to gemstone beads. I guess I just love colorful glass. There are so many different kinds, including lampwork beads. Lampwork beads are painstakingly made by hand with colored glass and a torch. No two are exactly alike.
Metal Beads
Precious metal – Gold and silver, of course, fall into this category. Gold beads are available in 14K and 18K. By law, the amount of gold present cannot be less than 14K. Vermeil items have a silver center that has been heavily electroplated with gold. Vermeil beads are slightly less expensive than gold beads.
Plated beads – Plated beads usually have a brass center that has been lightly electroplated with gold or silver.
Cloisonné – The colorful patterns on cloisonné beads are made with enamel and separated with thin strips of metal.
Pewter – Pewter is an alloy of tin and other metals. It was originally an alloy of tin and lead. If you are purchasing pewter items, be sure that they are lead-free.
Other metal beads include brass, copper, and zinc alloy.
Natural Beads
Natural beads are beads made of natural components like bone, wood, nuts, seeds and shells.
Pearls
Natural pearls are those that are naturally produced in an oyster or mussel without any kind of human intervention. They are usually not evenly shaped.
Cultured pearls – These have been produced in freshwater oyster farms. A tiny grain of sand, glass or mother-of-pearl is injected into the oyster, which immediately begins to surround it with nacre. It will continue to do this while it lives, creating an increasingly bigger pearl.
Imitation pearls include glass-based pearls and crystal pearls by Swarovski. There are some truly beautiful ones and they are available in different colors.
Plastic Beads
Plastic beads are not just for kids these days! Acrylic bead designers are creating very sophisticated-looking beads now. You can even take the regular beads uptown with elaborate clasps. These beads are courtesy of Firemountaingems.com.
Seed beads
Sizes range from 6 to 22. The higher the number, the smaller the bead and size 22 seed beads are the smallest at 0.9mm. However, these are no longer in production. The seed beads most commonly found are the size 6, 8, 11 and 15. The following chart is courtesy of Firemountaingems.com.
September 17, 2007
The Basics - Stringing Materials
I used to get really confused when it came to choosing the right stringing material for my necklaces and bracelets. There are quite a few options out there and several things to consider when making your choice. Are you working with seed beads or does your design call for big beads? Are you using glass beads, crystals or other components with sharp edges? Are the beads heavy? And it goes on. So, here are the types of threads and available and the recommended uses. Happy beading!
Threads
When doing beadwork, it’s best to use thread that has been specially created for the purpose. Regular sewing thread is not durable enough for jewelry pieces and is not thin enough to go through tiny beads. Beading thread is very thin yet very strong. Some are even thin enough to pass through a tiny seed bead several times. You can use beading thread for stringing, loom work, and off-loom weaving. You’ll find that there are several brands to choose from. Regardless of the brand you prefer, choose your thread based on the type of work you will be doing and the size of beads you will be working with.
Kevlar – This is the strongest thread available.
Nymo – The most popular brand of nylon thread. The four available sizes range from the incredibly fine OO to D, which is still fine but thicker.
Silk – This thread is used more often for pearls but you can also use it for other types of beads. It frays easily so you will need to coat it in beeswax before you begin your work.
Silkon – This synthetic nylon thread is very strong. The sizes are light, medium and heavy.
Threads
When doing beadwork, it’s best to use thread that has been specially created for the purpose. Regular sewing thread is not durable enough for jewelry pieces and is not thin enough to go through tiny beads. Beading thread is very thin yet very strong. Some are even thin enough to pass through a tiny seed bead several times. You can use beading thread for stringing, loom work, and off-loom weaving. You’ll find that there are several brands to choose from. Regardless of the brand you prefer, choose your thread based on the type of work you will be doing and the size of beads you will be working with.
Kevlar – This is the strongest thread available.
Nymo – The most popular brand of nylon thread. The four available sizes range from the incredibly fine OO to D, which is still fine but thicker.
Silk – This thread is used more often for pearls but you can also use it for other types of beads. It frays easily so you will need to coat it in beeswax before you begin your work.
Silkon – This synthetic nylon thread is very strong. The sizes are light, medium and heavy.
Wire
Beading wire is tough but flexible enough for stringing beads. Use it when you want your jewelry pieces to be stiffer, less fluid. Also use beading wire instead of thread if your beads have sharp or rough edges. Such beads will cut through thread over time.
Beading wire consists of several strands twisted together. The more strands used, the less the wire will kink. Use crimp beads to tightly secure the wire ends when you finish a jewelry piece.
The most popular beading wires are tigertail and beadalon. They come in varying widths but the most popular size appears to be 0.46mm. Use thicker wire for heavy beads.
Cords
Elastic cords – This is very good for bracelets without clasps but you can use it for anything you wish. For instance, I just got some elastic cord to use in a hair accessory I’m making. I used regular thread for it at first, but the hair stick I got for it is a bit too big for the holes. I’ll let you know how this turns out, look out for pictures!
Leather/imitation leather cord – I’ve seen elegant but simple necklaces made with leather cord. Most of them were just a nice pendants strung on a leather cord that was tied at the ends or finished with a clasp.
Rayon cord – There’s so much you can do with this, it doesn’t have to be limited to stringing beads. Rayon cords come in many colors.
Satin – This comes in many colors too.
Twisted satin cord – The twisted satin cord is made of two satin cords twisted together. It comes in 3mm and 5mm sizes.
Bola Cord – I’ve seen this used more often in cowboy-style neckties.
Hemp cord – Hemp jewelry is in.
Other stringing materials
Fireline – This is used for fishing lines but the size 6 is perfect for beadwork and is very strong. The only drawback is that it kinks easily. When this happens, the fireline cannot be straightened and this will show in your jewelry pieces.
Ribbon – You can make very elegant jewelry with colorful and unusual ribbons.
We’ve covered tools, findings, and stringing material so far. Our next stop is beads!
September 14, 2007
The Basics - Earring Findings
There are many categories of earring findings available that can be used for the incredible assortment of earring styles. The categories of earring findings include but are not limited to:
Earstud. This is your basic earring finding, secured with an earnut.
Earwire. Many of today's earring styles are enhanced by earwires, nicknamed fishhooks.
Hoops. You can dress up a hoop in many amazing ways!
Leverback. This is more secure than earwires.
That about covers it for findings. Of course there are many more, but the findings covered so far are the ones that are more commonly used by jewelry crafters.
We'll continue our intro to jewelry-crafting with stringing materials next.
Earstud. This is your basic earring finding, secured with an earnut.
Earwire. Many of today's earring styles are enhanced by earwires, nicknamed fishhooks.
Hoops. You can dress up a hoop in many amazing ways!
Leverback. This is more secure than earwires.
That about covers it for findings. Of course there are many more, but the findings covered so far are the ones that are more commonly used by jewelry crafters.
We'll continue our intro to jewelry-crafting with stringing materials next.
The Basics - Findings
Hello, again. So, today we'll continue our talk about the basic things needed for jewelry design. On to findings.
Findings
Findings are the pieces that hold jewelry together. These help add a certain panache to the jewelry pieces to make them look ‘finished’ and professionally made. There are quite a number of things that will classify as findings but we’ll talk about the ones that you are most likely to use often.
Jumpring. Use these as connectors or for chainmail jewelry.
Splitring. These are more secure connectors.
Headpin. The head holds beads on the wire.
Eyepin. Unlike headpins, the eye allows you to hang another jewelry part at the bottom.
Crimp tubes. Use these to secure your wire or thread when finishing your bracelet or necklace.
Pinbacks. Glue these to a cabochon, or other small element, and create a pin.
Spacers. Use these to stop beads from rubbing together, reduce the number of beads you need in a piece, or just add a touch of elegance. Many decorative versions available.
Next stop, earring findings.
Findings
Findings are the pieces that hold jewelry together. These help add a certain panache to the jewelry pieces to make them look ‘finished’ and professionally made. There are quite a number of things that will classify as findings but we’ll talk about the ones that you are most likely to use often.
Jumpring. Use these as connectors or for chainmail jewelry.
Splitring. These are more secure connectors.
Headpin. The head holds beads on the wire.
Eyepin. Unlike headpins, the eye allows you to hang another jewelry part at the bottom.
Crimp tubes. Use these to secure your wire or thread when finishing your bracelet or necklace.
Pinbacks. Glue these to a cabochon, or other small element, and create a pin.
Spacers. Use these to stop beads from rubbing together, reduce the number of beads you need in a piece, or just add a touch of elegance. Many decorative versions available.
Next stop, earring findings.
September 13, 2007
The Basics - Tools
Before you start a project or a profession, you'll want to know what you'll need to do it well. So we'll start by talking about the basics. We'll talk about tools, findings, stringing materials and the other things you'll need to make jewelry. This section will be in several parts and then we'll get on to the good stuff - actually making jewelry!
Tools
Just as a carpenter needs tools to build or fix things, so too does a jewelry maker. Yes, you need a tool box too to keep your tools organized - or not, it's up to you :-) So what kind of tools do you need? Lets talk about them.
Jewelry pliers - There are several different jewelry pliers out there, at least 12 by my count, maybe many more. Some of them go by different names. Here's a list of the pliers you will use more often, with a brief description of what each one does.
Chain-nose pliers. Used mostly for opening and closing jumprings.
Crimping pliers. Use with crimp beads.
Flat-nose pliers. Use for holding, gripping or bending wire.
Round-nose pliers. Use these to form loops and jumprings.
Side-cutting pliers. Use for cutting soft wires, like precious metal.
As I said earlier, these are just the basic pliers that jewelry-makers use, there are others. The next topic for basic materials is findings. Be sure to check back!
Tools
Just as a carpenter needs tools to build or fix things, so too does a jewelry maker. Yes, you need a tool box too to keep your tools organized - or not, it's up to you :-) So what kind of tools do you need? Lets talk about them.
Jewelry pliers - There are several different jewelry pliers out there, at least 12 by my count, maybe many more. Some of them go by different names. Here's a list of the pliers you will use more often, with a brief description of what each one does.
Chain-nose pliers. Used mostly for opening and closing jumprings.
Crimping pliers. Use with crimp beads.
Flat-nose pliers. Use for holding, gripping or bending wire.
Round-nose pliers. Use these to form loops and jumprings. 
Side-cutting pliers. Use for cutting soft wires, like precious metal.As I said earlier, these are just the basic pliers that jewelry-makers use, there are others. The next topic for basic materials is findings. Be sure to check back!
Hello!
Welcome to How to Make Jewelry!
I love everything about jewelry. I especially love seeing my ideas come to life....so to speak. I started experimenting with jewelry-making two years ago. In that short time, I've gone from making my own beads from polymer clay and resin to just working with ready-made beads.
I also love to read and now I have a nice collection of really good books about jewelry. I learned most of what I know from these books but I'll tell you about them later. I'm still learning, there's so much to know about this craft.
I'm really excited about sharing what I've picked up so far with you. Maybe I can help you avoid some of the mistakes I made along the way. So, without further ado, lets get started!
I love everything about jewelry. I especially love seeing my ideas come to life....so to speak. I started experimenting with jewelry-making two years ago. In that short time, I've gone from making my own beads from polymer clay and resin to just working with ready-made beads.
I also love to read and now I have a nice collection of really good books about jewelry. I learned most of what I know from these books but I'll tell you about them later. I'm still learning, there's so much to know about this craft.
I'm really excited about sharing what I've picked up so far with you. Maybe I can help you avoid some of the mistakes I made along the way. So, without further ado, lets get started!
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